Engendering fashion: Gender performativity, fashion, and formal occasions in Japan
Date
2025
Authors
Garcimartín Carmona, Iván
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Abstract
The sartorial choices of individuals on formal occasions in Japan reveal the gender differentiation of clothing in Japanese society and how people utilize fashion to embody gendered norms. By examining non-normative experiences and representations of gendered individuals in Japanese media, this thesis addresses the question: How do Japanese individuals construct gender identities through fashion in relation to formality? To answer this question, this study combines Judith Butler’s performativity with an intersectional, non-normative, and queer framework. It analyzes media representations– such as manga, movies, and images of other formal occasions alongside first-hand experiences from surveys and an interview. This thesis also examines coming-of-age ceremonies, an example of a formal setting in Japan where fashion is key in conveying and embracing gender norms. These highlight the tensions between expectations and individual aspirations regarding gender.
The analysis reveals that modernization from the Meiji period and the consequences of war created a differentiation between traditional and modern fashion, shaping gender binaries. While men gravitate towards Western-style clothing, women often use traditional garments such as furisode or hakama. Non-normative events, such as Kitakyushu’s coming-of-age ceremony, reveal the fragility of gender norms and how individuals negotiate their identities, showing their contentious nature. Additionally, exploring diverse ethnic experiences, such as the Zainichi community, challenges the idea of a homogenous Japan and broadens the understanding of gender identities. Thus, this thesis aims to construct an inclusive space to examine experiences that fall outside of the norm and put them at the centre of the discussion while considering the role of material culture in understanding the intricate patterns of Japanese society.
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Keywords
Gender, Performativity, Formal occasions, Japan, Non-normativity, Queer identities, Fashion, Intersectionality, Material culture